- Butylene glycol
- Dimethicone cross-polymer
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
- Magnesium sulfate
- Sodium PCA
- Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone
- Hexyl laurate
- Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate
- Retinyl plamitate
- Medicago sativa (Alfalfa) extract
- Lupinus albus seed extract
- Polysorbate 20
- Panax ginseng root extract
- Morus alba leaf extract
- Palmitoyl oligopeptide
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7
Published January 2010
The makers claim it has been 'independently proven to restore skin's structure, visibly improving deep lines and wrinkles by up to 50%'. This product contains a little of everything that might possibly be beneficial to the skin.
Siloxanes (aka silicones)
These are cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone cross-polymer, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone polyol, and cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone. Siloxanes are widely used as building sealants, waterproof fabrics, greases, car polishes, etc., as well as in cosmetics. They make the skin feel smooth, they prevent moisture evaporating, and they are long-lasting. Cyclopentasiloxane is also used as a lubricant for tight-fitting rubber, latex, and leather wear. It is also the active component in medication designed to remove wind from the human gut.
These are butylene glycol (aka 1,4-butanediol), glycerin (aka glycerol, 1,2,3-propanetriol), propylene glycol (aka 1,2-propanediol) and sodium PCA (short for sodium pyrrolidone carbonic acid) which is a humectant naturally present in skin. Humectants prevent loss of water from the skin so keeping it plumper looking. They are also added to foods to stop them drying out.
These are palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7 which consist of protein chains (aka peptides) attached to the long-chain fatty acid palmitic acid, which comes from palm oil. They increase skin thickness and hide wrinkles. Tocopherol (aka vitamin E), retinyl palmitate (aka vitamin A) and sodium ascrobyl phosphate (a derivative of vitamin C) are antioxidants that neutralise the free radicals thought to be responsible for skin ageing. Medicago sativa is extracted from the alfalfa plant, mainly grown as animal fodder, It is reputed to be anti-ageing although there is no scientific basis for this. Panax ginseng root extract more generally taken as a drink and supposed to have 'rejuvenating' health benefits. Lupinus albus seed extract comes from lupin seeds and is reputed to stimulate the production of collagen, the fibrous protein that gives skin its texture and the lack of which makes skin sag and wrinkle. Morus alba leaf extract comes from mulberry leaves and is said to improve skin tone. Arabinogalactan is a carbohydrate polymer which might help tighten the skin by allowing skin cells to adhere to one another. Hexyl laurate is a skin conditioning emollient which softens and smoothes the skin.
Formulation ingredients are carbomer, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and polysorbate 20. They are needed to get the various ingredients to blend smoothly together.
The preservatives methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and isobutyl parabens are there to prevent bacteria breeding in the face cream.